FOOD REVIEW // Ristorante Loren –Living La Bella Vita

My history with Rustichella d’Abruzzo began years ago as a young cook in the East Village. In a tiny apartment where counter space was non-existent and time was a luxury, I searched for the next best thing to freshly made pasta and developed strong opinions about what dried pasta should be. The texture, the 'grip' of the sauce, and the structural density all mattered—the quality of your pasta would make or break your final dish.

I’ve always believed the ultimate litmus test for any pasta is its ability to stand alone with nothing but a pool of gold-green olive oil and a crack of black pepper. But more on that later.

So it was with instant resolve that I RSVP-ed a very enthusiastic YES! to the Rustichella d’Abruzzo media event at Ristorante Loren on the Palm. A gorgeous space, inspired by the Italian Riviera of the 60s, with an open air dining room that takes full advantage of the sweeping waterfront views of the Marina & Bluewaters.

We arrived at a moody atmospheric entrance, and were greeted by the friendly hostess before being whisked away to the elevator. The moment the doors parted, we were struck with the Mediterranean elegance of the interiors. Impeccably layered textures and finishes were simultaneously luxe and light. Arched entryways flanked by Calcatta Viola Marble were repeated in the gorgeous bar. Glints of burnished bronze and rich green accents scattered throughout an otherwise minimalist color palette, grounding the space with vintage Riviera charm. We had accidentally arrived early which gave us a chance to swoon over the venue and have a private photoshoot.

One by one the other guests arrived, and the evening’s festivities began. The buzz of conversation, mostly in Italian, and the clink of bubbly flutes echoed through the dining room. Platters of canapes

started making their way out, one after another, all showcasing the star of the evening, Rustichella d’Abruzzo Pasta. The Frittatina di Bucatino Cacio e Pepe was our favourite, it had an almost Arancini

effect, the distinct umami sharpness of Parmesan Reggiano stuffed into a perfectly al dente Bucatini which was then breaded and fried. A sublime morsel, of which I unapologetically accepted “just one more” every time it came back around. I regretted nothing.

Happy and content, we sat for the coursed menu portion of the night. A salad of Lump Crab, Rustichella d’Abruzzo Fregola & Strawberries arrived dressed in balsamic vinegar, romesco and almonds. I had never had a “pasta” salad like this before. I scraped the last bits of sauce and crab from my plate, savouring the bright, fresh and acidic notes. A smart start to an eight course pasta dinner, and one I will attempt to recreate at home.

The next dish featured a pasta that was specially made for the UAE, Rustichella’s Gold-infused Paccherini. Chef Giovanni Cortese expertly handled this exclusive pasta, pairing it with a succulent, poached lobster and decadent, velvety cream sauce infused with high-grade saffron threads. The plate glistened in layers of rich sunset gold, the sauce clinged to the Bronze Cut Paccherini perfectly, a technique, which presses the dough through bronze dies, creating a rough and porous surface that helps sauce adhere better than mass-produced pasta.

The menu was a masterclass in the versatility and craftsmanship of Rustichella d’Abruzzo’s techniques, deeply rooted in their 100 year traditions. It was fascinating to see it take on so many different

personalities—sometimes the delicate carrier of Saffron, other times a bold Wagyu & Truffle Ragu. Served hot, cold or fritto, the pasta retained its signature al dente bite, likely due to its low temp drying methods that sometimes take up to 56 hours.

Full and content, I found myself sopping up the last bites of the Pasta Mista. A dish that used an assortment of pasta shapes, tossed with a decadent Wagyu Ragu, Truffle & Potato, added a playfulness to a sophisticated dish. And even though I had never had it before, it was nostalgic, reminiscent of the days my mom would pull together an 'everything' pasta from the half-opened bags in the pantry. It’s this evocative power of food that seeks out meaning beyond the ingredients, proving that the best flavors are the ones that remind you of home.

Just as we braced for dessert, the Chef revealed his final, surprise act—rolling a gleaming stainless steel bar cart into the room. With a big grin and the declaration that 'there is no such thing as too much pasta,' he began tossing Spaghetti into the hollowed heart of a giant Parmesan Wheel to the sound of enthusiastic applause. As he finished the dish with a bold crack of pepper and a generous glug of peppery olive oil, the evening came full circle. It was the ultimate validation of my original litmus test: when a dish is stripped back, there is nowhere for a grain to hide; it either possesses the soul of an artisan or it fails. This, emphatically, was a success.

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Mandana Shabani is a chef and Food Editor based in Dubai. If you'd like to get in touch email mandana@raemona.com