Travel Diary: Cologne // A converted water tower, a colossal cathedral and chocolate dedication
- Raemona
- 1 day ago
- 4 min read
David Dunn, Journalist and Photographer, ventures to Cologne to explore inspired hotel design, gothic grandeur and the city’s unapologetic 5,000-year love affair with chocolate
When engineer John Moore designed a water tower for Cologne in 1864 it is doubtful he could have predicted how it would evolve in the 21st century. That said, the chances are the Londoner would have approved.
The Wasserturm Hotel Cologne, Curio Collection by Hilton - close to the centre of the German city - wows not so much with opulence but the way the circular building’s nuances have been incorporated and enhanced. The converted water tower fascinates with its curious layout the moment you step into reception.
Huge brick pillars provide a sense of scale, punctuated by steel walkways and spiral staircases, while strategic lighting picks out discreet seating spots. Doorways lead to small lounges that flank one side while newer additions include a modern meeting room and the Wintergarten restaurant where breakfast includes Power Start and Rabbit Speed juices and decadent creations such as Benedict Huevos Rancheros and a Smashed Croissant.
More steel and glass blend with brickwork on upper levels, including one incorporating a deceptively generous gym, and a spa with massage room and sauna.
The Wasserturm is on its second iteration as a hospitality venue, with previous guests having included members of The Rolling Stones.
Not surprisingly, rooms leading off its circular landings are a little different.
Our fourth floor King John Moore Duplex Suite featured a novel layout that included a kitchen and dining area dominated by a tall, arched window.
A second showpiece window gave natural light to a main lounge of modern furniture and shelves of photo books detailing Cologne and Germany’s many water towers.
A wall timeline detailed the tower’s original development through to entering the Curio Collection in 2022 while a spiral staircase led to a mezzanine floor bedroom and generous black and white art deco bathroom.
The Wasserturm Hotel is well placed for central attractions that draw tourists to Cologne year round, from its imminent carnival to the famous Christmas markets (yes, we already mentioned the C-word).
The handy Stadtbahn light rail/tram system runs at street level and underground to connect to districts and sights centrally and further out; Poststrabe station is close to the Wasserturm, with a street lift descending to an underground platform.
But Cologne is also a very walkable city with the beguiling Kölner Dom - one of the world’s largest cathedrals - within easy reach. The epic gothic structure’s twin 157m spires are a major symbol of the city and this UNESCO World Heritage Site is free to visit unless undertaking a tour, such as to its observation decks.
By contrast, the nearby Musical Dome continues to host Moulin Rouge! The Musical, for visitors craving a taste of the famous Parisian cabaret in a city that celebrates culture and diversity.
Museums, galleries - there are more than 100 collections and exhibition halls - jostle for attention, while the “love locks” of Hohenzollern Bridge mirror another activity made popular by the French capital.
In this case, couples sealing a padlock on increasingly congested railings toss the key into the Rhine River.
A walk along the riverbank leads to the Chocolate Museum where 650,000 fans of the sweet treat each year explore the 5,000-year cultural history of cocoa and chocolate and follow the journey of cocoa from harvest to stock exchanges.
Cologne is a hotspot for street art in Germany and several routes, guided tours and specialised galleries spotlight the genre.
Conviviality and Rhenish cuisine also shine courtesy of the city’s many Kölsch bars and rustic restaurants serving the likes of Sauerbraten with dumplings and apple sauce.
Among Cologne’s most famous draws, however, are its Street Carnival and those renowned Christmas markets.
The former is a unique Rhineland folk festival that begins at the Alter Markt (Old Market) on February 12 and continues for several days, embracing age-old traditions in which revellers, known as Jecken, don costumes and take over the streets.
At the other end of the year, tourists flock to Europe’s numerous seasonal markets for the festive feelgood factor from November.
While Vienna tenders several bustling examples set against epic architecture, arguably more contrast is on offer, and arts and crafts more prevalent, in Cologne.
It shares the vibrancy - as well as huge evening crowds - of Vienna’s festive offering, but key markets remain a mostly walkable affair, such as Weihnachtsmarkt with the cathedral as its backdrop.
Festively-lit chalets selling myriad products from intricate baubles to bobble hats are accompanied by copious amounts of food - think waffles through to miles of bratwurst - washed down with glühwein (mulled wine), punch concoctions and brews served in souvenir mugs and glasses.
Heinzels Wintermärchen includes ice skating and artisan demonstrations such as glass-blowing and pottery, while the enchanting House Elves’ Winter Fairytale, in Old Town, and family-focused Nicholas’ Village at Rudolfplatz, are also super popular.
The quaint Market of Angels is a great place to begin, and a brief walk from the Wasserturm.
At the top of the water tower, Bar Botanik is a stylish evening venue for innovative cocktails and snacks to larger meals.
The venue’s generous outdoor terrace offers 360-degree views of the city - and makes for an ideal spot from which to plot your trips and activities.
For more on The Wasserturm, visit https://www.hilton.com/en/hotels/cgnwtqq-wasserturm-hotel-cologne
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