DUBAI has thousands of dining destinations and surely just about every cuisine and combination covered. Then along comes inventive city newcomer Romeo Lane to give us often spoiled food fans something unexpected to swoon over.
Plenty of UAE chefs have dealt in daring intercontinental food collaborations, but the notion of pairing flavour elements from India and cooking styles from Japan might seem like pushing boundaries beyond common sense.
That is exactly what clever, classy new Dubai restaurant Romeo Lane is pioneering, however, and it bridges the cuisines of these very different nations with flourish and finesse.
The UAE’s Indian diaspora will be familiar with the brand name - courtesy of a half century of branches across their country. Yet, they would be misguided to think this Dubai debut is more of the same.
The restaurant name could, quite rightly, have you thinking of Italian influences and a balcony in Verona.
But the menu and the results are anything but.
Sure, there is a slight nod to the European nation in the form of exquisite arancini that deliver a unique spin with biriani rice filling and popadom top.
Beyond that, however, the venue inside the Pullman Dubai Downtown prides itself on a beverage list brimming with old-meets-new ingenuity - and central to this is Romeo Lane’s ‘harmony in duality’ cocktail curation.
It draws on the philosophies of Japan’s Wabi-Sabi - which celebrates the beauty of imperfection - and India’s tribute to creativity and resourcefulness, known as Jugaad.
This sees the mixologist boldly blend ingredients like yuzu, kokum, saffron, and matcha with unexpected twists, laced with a touch of Middle Eastern influence.
Watch out for cocktails such as Kintsugi Negroni, The Samurai & Maharaja, and Arabian Nights in Kyoto.
We can vouch for the Romeo Lane Spritz with sake, spiced tamarind cordial and green tea and shish-infused vodka amid the mix, and Sakura Colada (pandan infused white rum, cherry blossom liquer, coconut cream, spiced pineapple cordial, strawberry puree, yuzu).
A few dishes here have the palate pondering while whisking diners off for a wander through familiar, yet somehow different territory. Romeo Lane boasts an extensive menu where some collaborative nods to the featured nations are more obvious than others.
Sushi figures with some decadent flourishes, such as signature roll Moshi Moshi with bluefin tuna, crabmeat, truffle, caviar and salmon involved. Spicy Salmon Aburi proved a fulsome yet refreshing treat with spicy mayo, avocado and teriyaki conjuring mouthfuls as tasty as they were pretty.
This was, however, knocked out of the park by Kyabetsu Salad where texture and flavour - crispy potato, goma dressing, seaweed - produce a starter that shines.
More jump-out starters include the splendidly-named Shroom Bomb while the kitchen manages to reinvent usually simple corn on the cob with its Corn Miso Masala - robata grilled and glazed with miso butter, you’ll never ask for it any other way again.
The same can be said for the grilled octopus which, in Romeo Lane, is prepared with a vindaloo glaze but taken stratospheric with mild chilli sauce and pineapple salsa for a marriage of gentle spice and sweetness that will leave you craving more.
Another cross-over winner is a picture perfect Pani Puri duo which marries the Indian staple with tamarind water and ponzu water - choose bluefin tuna or avocado - for delightful little flavour bombs playfully presented.
There’s an energy and pioneering feel to much of a menu which seeks to reimagine an already flourishing concept in a city that loves to eat - and to try something new - blending the rich traditions of Indian and Japanese cuisines with Dubai’s cosmopolitan flair, putting a sometimes subtle fresh spin on the familiar.
Case in point is Seafood Moilee, starring perfect seabass fillets in creamy coconut curry sauce, on our visit with seaweed, pak choi and caramelised onion.
And just when you think your tastebuds have been satiated, along comes the venue’s rendition of Butter Chicken (coriander pesto, makhni gravy) for an indulgent take on a ubiquitous dish which doesn’t try to force the “rising sun” influence.
While our sitting was topped off perfectly with two pebbles of moshi ice cream, those with bottomless appetites can further luxuriate in a small selection of desserts.
These include Coco’nuts About You (coconut and lime mousse, mango passion compote, coconut biscuit); Romeo Kulfi Falooda (Malai almond kulfi, flavoured vermicelli, whipped rabdi foam); Hokkaido Cheesecake, and Madras Filter Coffee Flourless Chocolate Cake.
Romeo Lane says the idea is that each plate tells a story of cultures coming together, showcasing the beauty of fusion while honouring roots.
The food is not the only element here presented with an eye for detail and aesthetic reward.
Great thought and investment has gone into delivering spacious yet intimate interiors, and a long and generous terrace, that exhibit a passion for natural textures and subtle elegance befitting daylight service or after dark dining.
Saurabh Luthra, Romeo Lane’s Founder and Chairman, says he is thrilled to bring what he describes as “more than a restaurant” to a city which “shares our passion for creativity, flavour, and connection”.
He explains: “It’s a space where our loyal patrons from India can rediscover us in a fresh way, and where new guests can experience the energy and soul of what makes Romeo Lane special.”
“Dubai’s diversity has inspired us to bring something unique to the table,” he adds.
This is something echoed by Head Chef Varun Mathur, who declares that every dish and drink has been created to tell a story.
“Our Indian-Japanese concept allowed us to explore an entirely new dimension of flavours, blending the boldness of Indian spices with the precision and balance of Japanese techniques. The result is an experience we hope will feel both familiar and entirely new.”
From its menu to its ambiance, the Business Bay venue also brings a touch of Middle Eastern influence to its offerings, giving Dubai’s culinary explorers something new, and perhaps unexpected yet refined to ponder.
And with that extensive outdoor seating area to indulge the cooler weather, it is the above also make this a refreshing setting for Iftar this Ramadan.
Also, watch out for an incoming ladies night and brunch fixtures.
// DETAILS:
ROMEO Lane is on Floor 2, Pullman Hotel Dubai, Business Bay.
THE Iftar set menu costs AED245 and includes a non-alcoholic beverage, with optional shisha.
CHECK out the menu and more at www.romeolanedubai.com
TO book, call 971 50 307 6961 or visit Sevenrooms
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