Are We Wasting Our Money on Collagen Creams?

Walk into any pharmacy or luxury department store in Dubai and you’ll see shelves lined with anti-ageing products, jars infused with seaweed and rose hip, serums promising radiance, tubs of collagen cream that can cost hundreds of dirhams. The UAE skincare market is valued at more than $1 billion a year and continues to grow, but an important question remains. Do these products really deliver on their promises?

Collagen is the structural protein that gives skin its firmness and elasticity. From our mid-20s we naturally lose about one to two percent each year, which is why fine lines and wrinkles start to appear. No surprise then that collagen has become a global buzzword for youth and vitality.

The catch is that collagen molecules are far too large to be absorbed through the skin. Smoothed on topically, they cannot rebuild the collagen we lose. “Collagen creams feel nice on the skin, but the molecules are too large to replace what we naturally lose,” explains Dr Parul Thakur, dermatologist and co-founder of Athena Dermatology Clinic. “That’s why we always advise patients to see creams as moisturisers, not as a way of rebuilding collagen.”

Collagen powders and drinks have become just as popular as creams, used not only for skin but also by athletes and people with arthritis. For years, the evidence was mixed, but that is beginning to change. Recent clinical trials show that daily oral hydrolysed or low-molecular-weight collagen can improve hydration, elasticity, firmness and reduce wrinkle depth. Molecular research suggests these peptides are absorbed into the bloodstream, where they stimulate skin cells to produce more collagen and hyaluronic acid while slowing down collagen breakdown.

“The data for oral collagen has become much stronger in the last two years,” says Dr Thakur. “We are now seeing consistent clinical studies showing improvements in skin elasticity and hydration. It is not a miracle fix, but it can be a useful addition to an evidence-based routine.”

Attention has also turned to natural compounds such as pterostilbene, found in blueberries and grapes. A small clinical trial suggested it may improve skin firmness and elasticity, but researchers stress it is still early days. For now, it is an intriguing area of science rather than a proven solution.

When it comes to slowing skin ageing, the strongest evidence still lies with tried and tested measures. Retinoids, or vitamin A derivatives, stimulate collagen production and reduce fine lines. Vitamin C and other antioxidants help protect existing collagen while brightening the skin. Peptides play a role in encouraging the skin to build new collagen. And above all, sunscreen remains the single most powerful anti-ageing product, particularly in the UAE’s year-round sunshine.

“What we know works best is a layered approach,” says Dr Akreti Sobti, dermatologist, and co-founder of Athena Dermatology Clinic. “Sun protection every day, prescription ingredients like retinoids, and now, in some cases, oral collagen supplements as an extra support. It is about combining lifestyle and science, not relying on one product alone.”

Lifestyle is just as important. Stress, lack of sleep, smoking and excessive sun exposure all accelerate skin ageing. “I see many patients who spend hundreds on creams when the real investment should be in prevention,” adds Dr Sobti. “Good sleep, balanced nutrition, stress management, and daily sunscreen make the biggest difference. Collagen supplements can add another tool, but they work best as part of that bigger picture.”

With the UAE ranked among the world’s fastest-growing skincare markets, demand for “miracle” products is only increasing. But consumers deserve clarity. Collagen creams cannot replace lost collagen, yet oral collagen supplements are now supported by credible science. They are not a miracle cure, but they may play a useful role alongside the basics, daily sunscreen, good sleep and a balanced diet rich in vitamins and antioxidants.

So before spending another few hundred dirhams on the latest collagen cream, it is worth asking, are we buying science, or just expensive hope in a jar?